Geisha Corsetry Collection part 2

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As promised  in Part 1 – we are now happy to present the 2 other corsets from the collection, modeled by  the exquisite Threnody in Velvet, and photographed by Iberian Black Arts.

The first of the corsets was in fact the first to be designed – and was also the most challenging one as for the first time I was making  it completely from the scratch – not using and adapting other patterns, but actually designing piece by piece, hoping it would all work together:-)

 

The initial design with different  silk choices… I wanted to convey the traditional aspect of geisha but with a strong modern twist, including the bondage element as well – think sexy bondage manga and you will more or less see where I was planning to head…. 🙂

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I  used my wasp waisted mannequin to get the shape of the pieces right – it is not too far off  Threnody’s measurements, so it was a useful tool. once the pieces worked on the dummy, I made a mock up in plain coutil, boned it and sent it to Threnody to try on and mark any problem areas etc – since she specialises in corsetry modelling, she was able to provide a valuable feedback – a great help!

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mock up on the dummy

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mock up on Threnody, with the improvement suggestions clearly marked

 

 

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Once I received the mock up with the corrections back, I was able to implement them  and change them a bit and start making the thing for real…

I was again due for our bitch and stitch sessions with Julia from Sew Curvy, so took it with me – and Julia’s suggestions and input helped a lot when we were considering minor changes in design.

Then the work started in earnest…

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drawing out the pieces

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cutting out

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sewing the front exterior channel onto the sheer

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getting there….

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the innards showing the hip gores

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the boning channels are on….

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binding, boning and suspender next….

 

Once the inside was tidies up, the suspenders were added ( with a decorative Japanese buttons) and the corset was flossed with  yarn – the flossing character chosen here was a kanji symbol meaning ‘red’.

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Next were the posture collar, reflecting the design of the corset, and the pasties – it was my first go at the pasties, but was pretty please with them – they are made out of leather, silk and the edges are decorated with a chemille braid.

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work in progress –

 

 

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ready!

 

Then the whole set, including satin ribbons for the wrists and kanzashi flower for the hair was packed and sent on to Threnody.

On the day of the shoot we discussed accessories,  hair and make up styles and I got the first proof the very same day – and once I chose the photos I wanted,  Threnody ( yes, she is also the photographer, editor, make up artist – you name it! a very talented lady!) worked on a suitable background options and credits font etc.

and the results – well, I loved the pictures – and I hope you do too!

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The corset is now back from its adventures and is available on sale in our online shop – and i think a few more of the same design will be appearing there  at some point too 🙂

 

The other corset was already half made when due to a sudden change of plans I had to remake it, and make it fit Threnody –  this one was a sheer number with the front panel and exterior boning channels made in  vibrant kimono silk. as accessories, I made a matching set of vambrances:-)

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And the corset  was ready:-)

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Again, it look great on Threnody, and the colours suited her exceptionally well!

 

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  This corset already sold – as I write it is making  its way to Hong Kong:-)

 Btw, the kanzashi flowers used here were by Colorful world of Kanzashi.

 Hope you have enjoyed my little forray into the ethnic inspired corsetry –  and, not surprisingly, I have another collection planned for the summer, with a completely different part of the world being represented:-)

 

Corsetry fun – Stitch and Bitch July 2013…

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 I love a good stitch and bitch – alas I do not have a lot of people with whom you get the balance of stitching and bitching just right, not too much bitching, and just enough stitching is usually pretty elusive. Well,  with Julia from Sew Curvy, we can do it perfectly well. We chat , we sew, we compare patterns, techniques etc – and we enjoy ourselves a lot.

 We come from different sewing backgrounds  – Julia’s is predominantly corsetry, including bridal, mine is mostly historical costuming, including bridal and steampunk; which mean that we have enough in common to connect and enough differences to learn from one another. A perfect mixture.

 I have visited Julia’s studio before  on other occassions – i taught classes there and we already enjoyed a sewing session there, when Julia was kind enough to assist in making a 1884 Higby patent corset  ( a nice adventure, recreating an authentic pattern 🙂  and going from this:

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 through this:

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the mock up

 and finishing with this:

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 This time I was also on a mission – I wanted to have a go at the prototype of an underbust that Julia created. I wanted to make it entirely from the scratch, using the components available from Julia’s online shop. There was some debate about which fabrics to use – I do love the broche and sateens, ans was spoilt for choice – but in the end we settled on the luxurious red sateen, with an even more luxurious black lace.

 Having made up my mind, I set to work,tracing the pattern and cutting the fabrics, and Jlia was busy finishing some waist training samples  for her Etsy shop.

 I have to admit that apart from sewing and chatting a lot of lacing in was going on as well –  over the day both of us tried the waist training corsets, underbust samples, oversbust and the Edwardian ones. Obsession?

  we started with one of the corsets from my recent bridal collection

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too small for my bra size, but still looking pretty good….

And then Julia tried on my edwardian  number…

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Just by comparision, here is both of us, in our natural, uncorseted forms…

 me:

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and Julia:

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 and then on goes the waist training sample in black sateen…

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And another sample, this time in broche.

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It was interesting to see that the same corset created a slightly different silhuette on different body types – though it still fitted fairly well.

 

 

It was even more evident when we put on Julia’s personal underbust – a lovely piece in broche, with distinctive flossing.

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and me in the same piece – the corset closes at 22″ waist and I can only dream of such a number – but it looked pretty good at 26″ – just an inch less than my normal, comfort corseted measurement.

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After all that excitment of lots of lacing, it was time for lunch…

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well…..

just joking – what we did have was this:

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Julia’s superb egg mayo sandwiches and fruit as my contribution.

 After lunch it was time to get some work done in earnest…

 The red sateen was constructed ( i loved the eyelet setters there so much, I bought them straight away!)

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  Julia kept an eye on my frolicking wiht the corset, just to make sure everuthing was up to scratch…

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 and then helped me lace into half finished piece…

 

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Not too bad! a few minor corrections and I was able to get enough done before leaving the studio. I took the lace with me to stitch it on the corset in the evening though…

 The evening continued with more chatting, and a rather nice meal – with Pimms, obligatory for British summer! 🙂

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great local takeaway!

 Marley, Julia and Paul’s greyhound was his usual charming self too…

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 Next morning, it was time to get back to the studio – with a few hours to go before I had to leave, it was just enough time to finish the underbust. Here trying it on, without flossing…

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the back…

 that’s what the underbust looked at that stage..

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inside…

 Quick consultation resulted with choosing simple Vs as flossing pattern, and the result!

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nice and comfy!

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close up

 Very happy with this sample, not sure whether I want to keep it or sell it on –  but we did take stock of all the components that were used for it – and I think Julia and Sew Curvy might have a surprise for you – a ready made corset kit, everything you need to create your own piece!

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 At that point I had to pack up my toys and leave – but something tells me it is not the last of our sessions… 🙂

 useful links:

 Sew Curvy shop and facebook page

Clessidra Couture – Julia’s bespoke corsetry, page and website

 and my own humble bits, page, and website

  hope you enjoyed the corsetry oveload…… 🙂