Officer’s jacket, Napoleonic era – Military bling galore!

Regency Ball-12

I do not do men’s garments after 1800.  But some people are very persuasive ( or simply very stubborn)…

In this case one of my existing customers ( I made a whole set of Regency wardrobe for his lovely lady last winter) managed to persuade me that I wanted nothing more than to make his new gear. A consensus was made, I gave under pressure and agreed to making shirts, waistcoats and the blingy coat, but drew a line at pantaloons. I shouldn’t have bothered at that line as it later turned out that since another tailor was a bit behind and wouldn’t be able to do the pantaloons – and  so I ended up making 2 pairs of the trousers. And a nice redingote for the lady…

The inspiration was the dress jacket from the National Army Museum 

1513 1514

Over July measurements were made, toiles were fitted and all the ingredients were assembled – and there was a lot to assemble!

The cloth ( broadcloth) came from Historical Textiles,  silly amount of military lace and braid from Hand&Lock, and some more braid and buttons were provided by the customer.

I started with the waistcoat….

IMG_20140821_153826

IMG_20140821_231524

IMG_20140821_222904

pockets!

IMG_20140822_100343

IMG_20140912_094053

eyelets at the back

IMG_20140912_094101

the waistcoat closes with hooks and eyes

IMG_20140912_105748

ready!

Time for the jacket….

IMG_20140908_170244

lace was applied and i started applying the trim….

IMG_20140909_155515

all the wriggly bits ( official term!) in place

IMG_20140910_170908

time to play with the front decoration…..

IMG_20140911_121339

the innards showing the stitches – the braid was attached with a strong linen thread.  The whole jacket was later lined in red light woolen cloth ( shalloon)

IMG_20140911_122715

sleeves ready!

IMG_20140912_122104

and the result:-)

the pantaloons were next – and they worked surprisingly well! 2 pairs were maid, one on navy broadcloth, one in white one…

IMG_20140912_105543

back waist detail

IMG_20140912_105537

done!

IMG_20140912_105521

front detail

IMG_20140912_105427

and the navy pair

The whole set was worn at Bath during the Jane Austen festival – and as we were there for the Ball,  Lucas took some pictures of it all being worn together:-)

Regency Ball-28

very dapper….

Regency Ball-39

back view

Regency Ball-46

undressed…

Regency Ball-47

and chatting with the ladies….

IMG_20140920_223758

At the ball with his lay wife, who is also sporting a Prior Attire kit:-)

Regency Ball-34 Regency Ball-4

and if you are wondering about the prices…

well, the blingy bits ( lace, braids, buttons) were well over £200,

fabric – broadcloth is at around £50 a metre ( and worth every penny!) –  6m were used.

1m of shallon for jacket lining, – £21

shirts, lining and neckclothes –  linen – 3m – £26

calico for toiles and interlining – £10

altogether the materials cost more or less around £400

Labour for it all – roughly £1000…..  it took altogether about 60 hours to complete….more or less.

Not a cheap  set – and obviously the accessories  were of fantastic quality and also , I imagine, rather dear. But gosh, doesn’t it all look fantastic! 🙂

And surprisingly – I really enjoyed making it, so watch this space, I don’t think it is the end of military bling for me!

May 2015 update –  and indeed it wasn’t….. since then I have made a corsetted waistcoat  and another set of a waistcoat and dolman, even blingier than this one:-)

Hussar Corset-38

IMG_20150430_113920 IMG_20150430_114057 IMG_20150430_114301

Credits

Cloth and help with patterning – Sean Phillips from Historical Textiles

Military lace:Hand&Lock

braid and buttons and the barrel sash:Stitch in Time

leatherwork – Peter Stroud – Menagerie Leatherwork

Photography – Pitcheresque Imagery

and all of this has been brought together by Prior Attire

Regency Ball-3