I do not do men’s garments after 1800. But some people are very persuasive ( or simply very stubborn)…
In this case one of my existing customers ( I made a whole set of Regency wardrobe for his lovely lady last winter) managed to persuade me that I wanted nothing more than to make his new gear. A consensus was made, I gave under pressure and agreed to making shirts, waistcoats and the blingy coat, but drew a line at pantaloons. I shouldn’t have bothered at that line as it later turned out that since another tailor was a bit behind and wouldn’t be able to do the pantaloons – and so I ended up making 2 pairs of the trousers. And a nice redingote for the lady…
The inspiration was the dress jacket from the National Army Museum
Over July measurements were made, toiles were fitted and all the ingredients were assembled – and there was a lot to assemble!
The cloth ( broadcloth) came from Historical Textiles, silly amount of military lace and braid from Hand&Lock, and some more braid and buttons were provided by the customer.
I started with the waistcoat….
pockets!
eyelets at the back
the waistcoat closes with hooks and eyes
ready!
Time for the jacket….
lace was applied and i started applying the trim….
all the wriggly bits ( official term!) in place
time to play with the front decoration…..
the innards showing the stitches – the braid was attached with a strong linen thread. The whole jacket was later lined in red light woolen cloth ( shalloon)
sleeves ready!
and the result:-)
the pantaloons were next – and they worked surprisingly well! 2 pairs were maid, one on navy broadcloth, one in white one…
back waist detail
done!
front detail
and the navy pair
The whole set was worn at Bath during the Jane Austen festival – and as we were there for the Ball, Lucas took some pictures of it all being worn together:-)
very dapper….
back view
undressed…
and chatting with the ladies….
At the ball with his lay wife, who is also sporting a Prior Attire kit:-)
and if you are wondering about the prices…
well, the blingy bits ( lace, braids, buttons) were well over £200,
fabric – broadcloth is at around £50 a metre ( and worth every penny!) – 6m were used.
1m of shallon for jacket lining, – £21
shirts, lining and neckclothes – linen – 3m – £26
calico for toiles and interlining – £10
altogether the materials cost more or less around £400
Labour for it all – roughly £1000….. it took altogether about 60 hours to complete….more or less.
Not a cheap set – and obviously the accessories were of fantastic quality and also , I imagine, rather dear. But gosh, doesn’t it all look fantastic! 🙂
And surprisingly – I really enjoyed making it, so watch this space, I don’t think it is the end of military bling for me!
May 2015 update – and indeed it wasn’t….. since then I have made a corsetted waistcoat and another set of a waistcoat and dolman, even blingier than this one:-)
Credits
Cloth and help with patterning – Sean Phillips from Historical Textiles
Military lace:Hand&Lock
braid and buttons and the barrel sash:Stitch in Time
leatherwork – Peter Stroud – Menagerie Leatherwork
Photography – Pitcheresque Imagery
and all of this has been brought together by Prior Attire
